Absolute Bagels

Europe · UK · London Great Dover 100
+443243432432
small business

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The haute green cooking at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s artfully decorated restaurant is based on the most gorgeous ingredients from up and down the London. The local, seasonal bounty finds its way into dishes like a clam pizza, topped with pristine littlenecks, Thai chilies, sweet onions, garlic and herbs.

Larger plates include a roasted chicken bathed in a vinegary glaze with wilted escarole and butter-sopped potato puree. Desserts, meanwhile, include a dazzling brown-butter tart with toasted hazelnuts and chocolate ganache. ABC delivers one message overall: Food that’s good for the planet needn’t be any less opulent, flavorful or stunning to look at.

The original A Voce off Madison Park has always been popular, but this one, which opened in 2009, in the Time Warner Center, with picture windows overlooking Columbus Circle and Central Park, is even better and a grand experience on every level. The room is big, sparkling and convivial with to-die-for views, but take all that away and you still have the food. And if it were served in a coat check closet, I wouldn’t be complaining. The menu changes periodically, each new menu focusing on a different Italian region; when I visited, the emphasis was on Sicily and the south. The house-cured baccala with pine nuts and raisins was the perfect mix of salt and sweet and a wonderful first course. A pasta course is a must; I still dream about the cavatelli with Brussels sprouts, almonds, and whipped sheep’s milk ricotta. With Sicily in mind, I sampled the pesce spada, or swordfish, with fennel, olives, and a chickpea fritter that was cooked to moist perfection. A Voce makes their own gelato, sorbet, and granite (Italian ice), and either or all are irresistible as an accompaniment to any of the restaurant’s amazing desserts.

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+443243432432
Parking
2007
9am to 9pm
11am to 9pm
10
Yes

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Location: Europe, UK, London

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